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DHAULAGIRI 2008

Diary from the expedition Martin Minarik Dhaulagiri 2008

Next expedition
2008/01/14

Next expedition! For Spring 2008 it is Dhaulagiri Solo! Martin leaves on March 11. "I would like to climb solo and alpine style, currently looking for interesting line in north face but hard to guess as I have no idea how much ice there will be. " he tells EverestNews.com.

page up | Martin | Everest News

Dhaulagiri West Face
2008/03/11

Leave for Nepal on March 11 and plan to hike with couple trekkers from Beni around the West Face of Dhaulagiri to the north base camp. I would like to finish the climb within the month of April. Martin

page up | Martin | Czech Republic

Dhaulagiri North BC, 4.600 m
2008/03/22

Martin reached base camp at 4.600 meters, on the 22nd, under the Dhaulagiri north face. He going to relax.

page-up | Martin | Dhaulagiri North BC

Acclimatization
2008/03/27

Martin Minarik met 26/03/2008 at North Dhaulagiri BC two Russians, Nikolai and Valeri. They want to acclimatize in the west face. Tomorrow 28/03/2008 they are going to the saddle together.

page-up | Martin | Dhaulagiri North BC

The weather is very bad
2008/04/02

The weather at Dhaulagiri is very bad. It is snowing steadily. Martin and both Russians have to come back to BC from the saddleback at 1/4/2008. In the BC is 40 centimeters snow for the present, up in the saddleback in 6.000 meters there is waist-high snow.

page-up | Martin | Dhaulagiri North BC

Clear weather and warm
2008/04/08

Under Dhaulagiri it was today (2004/04/07) clear weather and warm, the wind was not blowing, it was possible to sunbath. Spaniards (ivanvallejo.com and carlospauner.com) have tomorrow puja, Martin and Russians will take part as well. On Wednesday they are going to go to C1, weather should be OK.

page-up | Martin | Dhaulagiri North BC

Acclimatization
2008/04/12

Martin has succesfully finished the acclimatization, ascend via west route up to 7.000 m. Now he is in the BC with Temba sherpa and getting new energy by eating. Yesterday Russians took him out of his tent from the small avalanche.

page-up | webmaster | CZ

Going for the Summit
2008/04/19

On 4/19 Martin goes up. It will be a success for a ascent of the summit. If it will be ok, he should be on 4/23 on the top. Till 4/25 is he without the satellite phone, there is no signal.

page-up | webmaster | CZ

Dhaulagiri Summit, 4/23 20:00 h.
2008/04/24

After exhausting ascent Martin Minarik reached the summit of Dhaulagiri on 4/23 at 20:00 (local time). It was a solo ascent from 7.000 m and nobody had carried him the equipment - even thereunder. By available information it is probably the first ascent of himalaya 8000m-season 2008. Now he is in the BC.

page-up | webmaster & MP | CZ

Summary
2008/05/02

I left bc on April 19 at 2am and climbed directly to Camp 2 in 11 hours. I rested there the next day. On April 21 I left along with my ex climbing partners Radek and Zdenek and we spent the night on the same tiny ledge at 7000m where I spent the night previously with Valery and Nick.

In the morning of April 22, I left with only bivi gear without sleeping back and tent, none was previously above this altitude and I wanted to be as light as possible. I found a good shelter under the rock at 7250m. Cold and windy night but nice morning of April 23, I left late in only down jacket and bottle of water in its pocket. Hot and windless day turned windy late afternoon, after the traverse of the big couloir I found an excellent snow which led me into the narrow couloir and the ridge with the body of German climber exactly according to the description of the Spanish.

In darkness I reached the summit, then returned by the body back to north slopes and reached my bivi site at 8am next morning. Less then 24 hours later I was in bc and only few hours later on my way to French pass. I reach Kathmandu on April 27.

Now I am back in Czech Republic drinking the best beer on the world.

It was one of the best trip to Himalaya in my life.

April 23, 2008 ( my summit day) is also the day of 8th birthday of my daughter Anna Martina. One can hardly realize the strength of motivation for me to reach the summit on this day as soon as I learned it would be possible given the window in the weather.

page-up | Martin Minarik | CZ



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